Five weeks. We gave ourselves five weeks to explore Alaska. So much time. Not nearly enough time. We also gave ourselves permission to treat this trip as the once-in-a-lifetime visit that it might be (tho we really hope we get to come back). With Larry existing in the liminal space of Akamai at his back and a yet-unwritten employment at his future, we also gave ourselves permission to open the purse strings and to mete out a dose or two from the bravery satchel. Okay, that last one was more Kim than Larry, but really, we both entered into unknown territory, still pretty much novices at the whole RVing thing, and certainly new to Alaska and all it entails. We did A LOT. Yet we hardly scraped the surface. I don’t quite know the shape of this post yet, but I know I want to talk about Alaskans, I want to talk about the natural splendor and glory we witnessed. I want to talk about the adventures. I want to talk about the National Parks. I want to talk about the wild and the less wild life. I want to talk about the food. I want to share it all. I really wish I could bring everyone here to see it in person. Words failed me often while here, and I was a poor excuse of a photographer, but it’s the only artistic medium I can even attempt. Unfortunately I’ve exceeded the data limits of my plan here, so I can’t even try to communicate with images. Words will have to do. And even the words are going to be more steam-of-consciousness, first draft rambling. Unlike prior travels, I really did not keep an ongoing scratch pad of writing or weekly summaries for this blog. The best chance to see pictures is to go to my Instagram page because I did manage a daily post for the whole trip. (@empty_nest_wanderings). Now, as Chicken, Alaska, is in my rear-view mirror and I find myself hurtling toward our next phase of Canadian travel, I feel compelled to capture something. There’s a bunch of subheadings. As usual I reserve the right to update this post.

The People, specifics
Firstly, Vanessa. My friend, Vanessa, and her husband, Travis, opened their home and hearts to us for a few days. We were humbled by their generosity and friendship and we appreciated all their advice and insight into their beloved home state. It was so comfortable. So wonderful. Together we hiked, laughed, talked deeply and lightly, enjoyed coffee and the creations of some talented people in the kitchen. We shared lessons in pizza making, sourdough, ice dying, musk oxen, subsistence hunting, halibut fishing, log cabin and fire place construction, and approaches to treating a reoccurring sprained ankle and shoulder surgery. Even though it’s been over a decade since we’ve seen each other in person, it was easy to re-enter Vanessa’s orbit. I loved spending time with her. She is one of the most talented capital A Artists I have the privilege of knowing. She’s also a pretty amazing human. She’s interesting, kind, funny, and we discovered we have an awful lot in common, more than I think either of us initially realized when we first struck up an internet friendship based on photography all those many years ago. I really didn’t want to leave their place and I already miss her. Also, their dog, Waylon, is a 15/10 good boy for whom I am still pining.

Carlos and Susan are a couple we met at the Salty Dawg in Homer. We sat next to each other at the famous bar, way down on the spit and were immediately drawn in. Carlos is so warm and friendly, quick with a laugh and incredibly generous. Susan is sharp and witty, smart and savvy, with a beautiful smile and a head for business. They are from Texas but have started a seasonal BBQ Food Truck business in Homer and are making a go at the two homes/two seasons life. We had a terrific evening with them. It’s clear they are well loved and well respected in the community. Carlos asked the bar staff if he could have one from the pile of desserts that he brought for them. He then gifted us with one of the pecan pies. We gushed but explained that Larry will enjoy it all on my behalf because I have an allergy to tree nuts. Everyone agreed that it was a shame. (Don’t I know it.) The evening continued. Carlos and Susan bought us a round. We bought them a round. And so it went. We all really hit it off. The men exchanged numbers at the end of the evening and we promised to swing by their shop before we left Homer. The next day, while shopping at Ulmer’s, Larry got a call from Carlos. Next thing I know, we are out in the parking lot meeting Carlos and Susan, and their sweet pup, Belle. Carlos hands me a lemon tart. A. Lemon. Tart. Just because I couldn’t enjoy the pecan pie. And let me say here and now, Susan is an exceptional baker. The fact that she is an exceptional baker at scale blows my mind. That lemon tart was easily the best lemon tart I’ve ever had. And I love lemon tart. Larry was equally delighted with the pecan pie. It was their day off but they found us in town and gifted us a dessert. We four decided to meet for dinner at the Twisted Goat. Baby bunnies out front, excellent seafood stew inside. It was lovely. I did not expect to make new friends on this trip, but we got pulled into the personable orbit of Carlos and just kept spinning. We really wanted to get back to see them and spend time during their days off, but our schedule and theirs just couldn’t quite match up. But we did make a point to swing into their BBQ place, Rumps, and see them before we left the peninsula for hugs and promises to keep in touch. And of course to get some incredible brisket, delicious homemade bbq sauce, and peach cobbler that is so good it should be outlawed. I truly hope we get to see them again in Alaska, Texas, Florida, or somewhere else. They are the very definition of good people.

Last vignette in this category: Travis. A different Travis than Vanessa’s husband. We were camping at Bird Creek. This was the second of five or six times we camped at this particular place. It was a weekend night and it was crowded with campers and day trippers. While there was one group of 20 somethings partying and being obnoxious, I am not going to focus on them. Instead, I want to capture the camper truck that parked next to us. A man and woman started setting up their camping gear. With them was the most beautiful dog. Lithe, petite, radiated speed and intelligence. His face was almost foxy. It looked like a black dog that stepped its front legs and back feet in white paint. The very tip of his curled tail was stark white too, like a paintbrush. I had my nose pressed against the window watching this beautiful creature. I was smitten and could not resist. So, against every one of my introverted instincts and to the surprise of Larry, I left the van and approached the neighbors with a greeting and a request to pet their dog. They agreed and we sat at their picnic table chatting while I pet Obe. He was relatively new to them. He was part Karelian bear dog, part Alaskan husky. He was beautiful. I was obsessed. I wasn’t planning on enjoying the chat with the humans, but I actually did. They were from Homer and were just out for the weekend, training Obe for camping. Obe’s dad, Travis, offered several Homer recommendations. I thanked him, pet Obe once more, and went back to my van. The next morning, at check out time, Travis knocks on our van. He hands me a written note of all he told me verbally AND then gifts us a bottle of his homemade blueberry meade, made from blueberries on his property. Apparently, it’s award winning meade, but it could have been swill. The gesture and the effort was incredible. I am still a little baffled by it.

The people, generally
We are meeting and observing a lot of people on this trip. Sure locals, many in the tourist industry, but a lot of fellow travelers. Most people here, whether locals or tourists, guides or transplants, all seem so in awe of the environment. Many of our tour guides were right beside us taking pictures of wildlife and the scenery. And especially at the National Parks we are observing many people from very distant lands spending their money and their time to come to America and witness the best we have to offer. Seeing our national treasures through their eyes makes me so very proud. I have been observing a similar wave of shared happiness through the videos and reports of foreign travelers who make it to the US for the World Cup. It’s all so very wonderful. I think we’ve been hungry for joy for a very long time now, and this kind of appreciation and mutual respect is quenching.

Alaska is not for the faint of heart. It is rugged, remote, dangerous, and wild. It takes a hearty breed to make a go of it here. Early in our trip Alissia (one of our guides) offered the insight that to live in Alaska you need an indoor hobby, an outdoor hobby, and a community. There is a strong sense of independence and responsibility. There is an expectation and understanding that you have to work together. Similar sentiments were echoed by others during our time there and we certainly witnessed it. Larry observed that there is a wide gap between the original Sourdough men (those who braved this place when it was only frontier) versus Larry Underhill slapping at mosquitos like a school girl.

Natural splendor and glory
It’s off the chain. I quickly ran out of words. Wow wasn’t cutting it. Pretty. Stunning. Incredible. These words were replaced with gasps, which were then replaced with hand waves — as in, take this all in. And then the hand waves and gasps were replaced with reverent silence. What did we see? Mountains, volcanoes, glaciers. Creeks, rivers, lakes, oceans. Gulf of Alaska, Arctic Ocean, the bore tide, icebergs. Wildflowers and trees, grasses, forests wetlands, mudflats, prairies, valleys, waterfalls. We had the privilege of watching the long stubborn winter slowly release into spring. And because we traveled fairly far and wide in the state, we got to see spring quickly shift to summer. When we arrived it was still stick season and snowing in places. As we were leaving the wildflowers were just starting to explode. Lupine transitioning with vetch into fireweed. Cinquefoil competing with dandelions for the yellow splashes. The further south we went the brighter our roadsides were. Brilliant swatches of fuschia, pink, purple, blue, yellow. And greens so vibrant and new they appeared glowing neon. With almost 24 hours of daylight, fauna has to get while the gettin’ is good around here. This state rewards the macro and the micro. Vast mountain ranges blowing your mind constantly with the vistas. And then you see the most gorgeous micro arctic flora. Glaciers are still actively carving the land here. It’s really cool seeing that active geology compared with the southern US where the ancient elements shaped the land so long ago. In Alaska geology feels more present.

Wildlife
What did we see? Many Moose (bulls, cows, calves), bears (sows and cubs, black and brown. No polar), eagles, sea otters, seals, sea lions, humpback whales, orcas, dolphins, puffins (tufted and untufted), deer, common murres, plovers and pipers, gulls, ravens, crows, bunnies, rabbits, marmots, squirrels.

Domestic animals
Oh, the dogs!!! Waylon is top of my list. But there were so many good boys. I think Alaskans love and train their dogs as much as the Germans, and I’ve never seen anyone love and train dogs more than that. The Alaskan Huskies are internal to the culture and are incredible working dogs, Smart, eager, and joyful. They are a thinner, smaller dog than what I think of for a husky. Naturally we met lots of non-working dogs and I feel in love with each and every one. There were some cats, but they were few and far between, and more working than cuddly.

National Parks
We are hunting National Parks, and Alaska has eight of them. Five of them you can only reach by plane or boat. Fun fact: we learned that rural means there’s a road system (or what might pass for a road). Remote means no roads; you can only reach it by plane or boat. There are a lot of remote areas of Alaska. I could and should do a blog post on each park, but for now, listing will have to do. We visited Wrangell St Elias, Denali, Kenai Fjords, and Lake Clark. We tried really hard to get to Katmai, but we were rained out from our flights. We will still need to return for Glacier Bay, Gates of the Arctic, Katmai, and Kobuk Valley.

Locations (stayed or visited, duplicates deleted)
We covered a lot of ground while in Alaska. Having our house on wheels and not minding long driving days made it all possible. We spent a lot of time in the greater Anchorage area, especially along the Turnagain Arm, where there was a YMCA, two airports, and easy access to other areas. We also spent a fair amount of time on the Kenai Peninsula. I believe the following are all the places we visited or overnighted in: Tok, Chitina, Kennicott, McCarthy, Valdez, Whittier, Seward, Soldotna, Anchor Point, Kenai, Homer, Girdwood, Bird Creek, Wasilla, Palmer, Barrow, Lake Clark NP, Anchorage, Eagle River, Nikiski, Halibut Cove, Nilichik, Hope, Talkeetna, Denali NP, Kodiak, Matanuska, Hatcher Pass, Glacier View, Chicken. I loved the Turnagain Arm area and I loved Homer. of all the areas we visited, I believe I would be tempted to return to Homer in the winter time to see the Aurora Borealis. We did not get to Fairbanks, and we did not get to Juneau. More for the next-time list.

Adventures
This category is ridiculous. So many glaciers in so many forms. So many modes of transportations. Just about every type of plane and every type of boat made our roster this trip. (It’s almost embarrassing to document. In fact, I feel sheepish about even capturing it as its own category and probably need to explore that more.) As I mentioned earlier, we treated this trip as a once-in-a-lifetime and as a celebration of 25 years of dedication to Akamai. We were good to Akamai, and Uncle Akamai has been very good to us. We decided to use some of Akamai’s magic beans on experiences we could not easily do anywhere else in the world. We took a flight seeing tour of Denali and landed on one of its glaciers. We flew to Barrow, and experienced the furthest northern town in the US. We flew to McCarthy to explore Wrangell St Elias, Kennicott, hike to the toe of the Root glacier, and to learn how to pack-raft in glacial waters. We took a helicopter to Punch Bowl glacier and rode a dog sled in the gleaming sunshine. We got to visit the Seavey dogsled base operations and see how the dogs stay trained up even in the off season. We went salmon fishing on the Kasilof River (and ate fresh sockeye that night). We hiked to view the Exit glacier. We worked a hand tram across a glacial river. We sailed out of Seward through fjords to Slate Island where we got in sea kayaks and watched and listened to the Aliak glacier calve into the sea. We got in a water taxi and crossed Ketchemac Bay to hike to the Grewingk glacier. We hiked for three hours upon the Matanuska glacier. We collected glacial ice at both. We flew to Lake Clark and hiked to a spectacular water fall. We took the Lu Lu Belle out of Valdez en route to the Columbia glacier amid the fjords, but had to turn back early. This last one reminds me to capture some of the misses that we had, which is inevitable when you swing for the fences every time.

(mis)Adventures
The Lu Lu Belle was awesome until it wasn’t. We had such a wonderful time seeing a variety of wildlife as we made our way out to the Columbia Glacier. Unfortunately the ship struck something unmarked, unexpected, and unusually large and hard. That was scary for sure. Luckily we did not take in any water, but we did need to slowly hobble back to port. They gave full refunds, which I thought was extremely generous. The next miss we had was canceling an ice climbing adventure because my sprained ankle was still healing and that particular activity probably wouldn’t be the best for me. As Travis advised: I could probably do it, but it probably wouldn’t be much fun. The last miss we had was a real swing for the fence. We tried to thread a needle to take a chance to see grizzly bears in Katmai National Park. This was a biggie and we should have known better than to get our hopes up. First of all, it was still very early in the season for the bears. Next, we had weather that was less than conducive for flying. We made it to Kodiak Island (much to the surprise of the Air Alaska crew). But there we were grounded and socked in. It was very rainy the entire time we were there. I had rented some pretty bad-ass camera equipment in the hopes of capturing bears. Alas, that was mostly a waste. I did enjoy the crash courses I took to try to be able to use the Nikon Z8. But it was so rainy and foggy, and I had only rented the 180 – 600 zoom, so I couldn’t even realistically play with it on Kodiak. I didn’t even get a picture of the equipment. Aw nuts. The other area that could fall under this “mis” subheading is mispronunciations. Cue the Hermione scene “WinGARDium LevioSA” every time Larry tried to say Kasilof. I think the last and most hilarious “miss” of our Alaska shenanigans was when Larry was tempted by a roadside ribeye sale. Granted, he had recently had the best frozen pork chop he ever had in his life (courtesy of Carlos). Likely that was crossing his mind as he crossed the double yellow and pulled into the lot holding the box truck and the man in the camp chair. He returned with a box full of frozen (mis)steaks. We laughed a lot and made the best of them (beef stew, beef fajitas) but we probably won’t be buying frozen roadside meat again soon.

Food and drink
Thinking of the steaks has me thinking about all the incredible food and drinks we enjoyed, so let me ramble about that for a bit. As this trip has really been an extended vacation, we’ve consumed more than we normally would. There was just so much good stuff to try. In the beverage category, the local beer and cider scene is Alaska is strong. We had literal glacial ice — ice older than our country that we harvested off glaciers — over whiskey. Bear Creek Winery was a huge surprise. I didn’t think I’d enjoy fruit wine (cue the Schitt’s Creek scenes), but we really did. For food, Rumps BBQ and the pork chops shared by Carlos are definitely top of the list. So does Vanessa’s sourdough bread. Potato in McCarthy for opening day and then again, in Valdez, was a wonderful experience. Apparently cinnamon rolls are really big around here, in size and in popularity. We had several. We ate sockeye salmon fresh from the Kasilof River, and I’ve never tasted anything so delicious. We had a great meal al fresco at Saltry in Halibut Cove. The seafood stew at the Twisted Goat in Homer was exceptional, as was the Japanese spicy seafood soup I enjoyed in Kodiak. The one dish we ate every day in Seward was the Carmel Apple Toast from Primrose Provisions. I would eat it every day if I could. Talkeetna food was really surprising, the spinach bread and the rice bowl were so delicious. For scientific purposes, Larry had to order the Mile High Pizza Pie that boasted 30 toppings. He stands by his rule of three. And speaking of Larry and pizza, he gave a master class in pizza making to Vanessa and Travis, using their pizza oven. We dined al fresco in their yard with multiple Thermacells keeping the state bird (aka mosquitos) at bay. Actually, while it looks (and feels) like we ate out a lot — and for our normal standards we did — we also cooked in a lot. Louie makes all of that pretty easy. Larry is master of the air fryer and our propane cooktop. He’s made kimchi fried rice, gochujang chicken, beef stew, fajitas, cassoulet. We’ve had delicious salads (tossed, bean, corn, and farro). We’ve had all manner of veggies, roasted as we like them. We’ve not gone hungry.

In conclusion
Alaska has gotten under my skin in a very good way. There’s no place like it that I’ve ever experienced. I am so truly grateful for the opportunity and so glad we took the time and resources needed to explore it as deeply as we did. I know there’s so much more, and with any luck, we will have the chance to return. Until then, I will encourage anyone and everyone to go and see it, in whatever manner you can: drive, fly, cruise. One week, or one month, or one season, or one year. It won’t be enough. But it will be a good start at knowing the smallest world in the biggest state.