We almost didn’t make this trip. Again. This was the third time we were attempting this trip. It was supposed to be for our 25th wedding anniversary, but covid had us cancel it the first time. Then, once things started opening up again, we tried to rebook it, but Japan was maintaining strict covid measures which denied us entry again. We then needed to postpone a year to have Meredith finish high school and get launched into Uni. So that meant that we could finally go in October of 2024. Except, right before our departure, Hurricanes battered Florida and the Carolinas. We managed to avoid the worst of Helene as we moved our RV van down into storage in Florida, but then Milton threatened our people and our properties. It was harrowing to be up in NH with my parents down in the thick of it; tornadoes and hurricane force winds are not kind to manufactured homes. The storm blew through, caused significant damage to some folks in our community, but luckily we were spared. Which meant, we actually got to go to Japan.

We’ve been back for almost a week. I have been slow to post here about our trip. Mostly I’ve had trouble trying to sum it all up in words and, at the same time, limit the number of photos that I will include here for visual support. It’s been a difficult task.

So far I’ve narrowed pictures for summarizing  our trip down to about 60, But those don’t include pictures of food. The food! Oh, the food! I think I have equal — or more — pictures of food than of all other types combined (crazy toilets might come in second). I’ll probably add another 50 pictures just of the food. We ate widely and well. We certainly ate outside our comfort zones a time or two. We definitely ate more textures and colors and fermentation than we are used to with our western diet. We were blown away by the quality and actual convenience the convenience stores (e.g., 7-11) offered. I can’t say I would ever even consider eating a pork cutlet at midnight from a 7-11 in America. Yet, in Tokyo, it was hardly a second thought. As people who enjoy going into grocery stores when traveling, we were in absolute heaven in Japan. 

We spent 10 days in Japan, no where near enough time for such a country. We visited three regions: Tokyo, Koyto (with an evening in Osaka), and Hakone. Upon returning and reviewing photos in an attempt to give a summary of our trip to Japan, some things really stand out:
~ Tokyo: A big food culture: convenience stores, department store basements, markets, restaurants, there is great food everywhere. It has big city energy and crowds, neon, more modern architecture and design with pockets of ancient, historic, quaint neighborhoods. It’s incredible at all hours
~Kyoto: more ancient than modern, countless temples, shrines, and spots of stunning natural beauty, a crush of tourist crowds (spoiler: I prefer city crowds),
~Hakone: mountainous, wild, beautiful, peaceful, an almost uncomfortable level of attentive service

Common across the three regions: Outstanding foods, kind, generous people, excellent transit systems, and impressive (sometimes complicated) toilets.

I think, rather than try to capture the detailed itinerary here, instead I’ll put in some different thoughts or observations that I had during our trip. I reserve the right to add more as time and memory allow.

My favorite meal in Tokyo happened when we stepped into a tiny udon noodle shop. It could maybe hold eight – ten customers. We were ushered into a tiny booth, sitting side by side. The table was divided vertically so that we and the people sitting across from us at the same table could have privacy visually, if not audibly. And you are supposed to be audible when eating noodles in Japan. It’s considered a statement of enjoyment and a compliment to the chef. As a person raised not to slurp or make noise it actually took a concerted effort to make the right sounds to reflect my joy at the meal. The food was incredibly delicious. Absolutely simple and rich and perfectly prepared. Mine was eggplant and pork with the homemade noodles and broth, and my mouth still waters thinking about it.

My favorite stop in Kyoto with our guide was at the Shoren-in Temple. The ancient grounds were to tranquil and lush. There were trees dating back 800 years. The grounds and the temples were meticulously maintained. We were even fortunate enough to be able to observe a private Buddhist ceremony which was powerful and reverent. I was moved to tears there.

My favorite stop in Kyoto on our own was a temple in our neighborhood that simply drew me in. I couldn’t pass it by, and once there I felt such peace. It was so simple and so beautiful. I was also moved to tears there. And, as it happens the Chōhō-ji (Rokkaku-dō) Temple is considered the birthplace of the art of Ikebana flower arranging, so it felt like I was meant to find it.

Our time in Hakone was at times incredibly relaxing and at the same time incredibly intense. You see, they are big on exceptional, accommodating service at the ryokans. This means that they are watching you closely. They communicate with earpieces and tiny microphones. They know when you approach the building. They know when you leave your room. They know what you like to drink. They pay attention to what you like to eat. If there happens to be, say five employees in the lobby, they ALL will stop what they are doing to watch you put on your shoes (awkwardly, westerner), then deeply bow you out the door as you go off to explore. They might even escort you to the property boundary to ensure your safe passage. It was a bit…much… for people like us who prefer to fly under the radar. I’m glad we did it. I am so glad we did it. The hot springs were absolutely luxurious and incredible, and the extensive private breakfasts and dinners served in the room were off the charts in terms of quality and quantity, precision and perfection, but I don’t know that I would seek out that level of luxury coupled with that level of attention again.

Okay, I feel I’ve delayed long enough. Here are a mess of photos to be getting on with. There’s a lot to take in. A lot to remember. I hope we get to return someday.

And the photos of food. All kinds of food. I was blown away by the INSANE quality and quantity of prepared foods found in department store basements. It’s bigger and better than any Eatly, or any Käfer, or any other high end food market I’ve ever seen. Ever. But the convenience store food culture in Japan is just as staggering. Delicious, prepared foods, cheap and plentiful. With a crazy selection of drinks, snacks, and sweets.